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New to Geocaching? Our Suggestions for your trip

So you've decided you want to have a go at Geocaching.
You've signed up to the website, located your home and seen a few caches in your local area. So what next?
Well, for starters, you need to be able to locate those caches on the move. Its all well and good sitting in front of the PC looking at a vague google map, but that doesn't get you very far in the field.... so where do you start and what do you need.

GLOBAL POSITIONING SYSTEM
At the heart of every modern Geocacher is a very modern device. The GPS system.
Most of us know them simply as a TOMTOM or Garmin, or Sat Nav to give its usual name. And many of us have them lying about the house, waiting for that car journey to the back of beyond (so you may find it collecting dust in the understairs cupboard).


THE SAT NAV SYSTEM
A standard satellite navigation system such as a TOMTOM or Garmin will, depending on the model you have, usually be sufficient to take you to within a few yards of the cache site. Their accuracy is, in my opinion, not an essential feature of their planned everyday use. You travel on roads that are 4 metres plus in width, so the Sat Nav unit only really needs to be that accurate to know you are on any given road at any point in your journey.
That said, why on earth would you go out and spend more money on a hobby you've only just begun to experience. So for the first timer, I would recommend utilising any Sat Nav equipment you may already own.


THE MOBILE PHONE SYSTEM
You can also find Sat Nav systems built in to some of the more modern mobile phones out there. Many TouchScreen or SmartPhones, either Windows Mobile Based, Symbian or Android based now support GPS software. If you have one of these in your possession, you could utilise this too. Again, my personal experience shows me that these phones are great little machines capable of getting you to within a few feet of a cache location (with the right software).
Setting them up can be a bit of a trial.


WINDOWS MOBILE PHONES - MORE INFORMATION
Lets take the Windows Mobile based phone for example. In my case, I have used an HTC Touch Diamond and a Samsung Omnia (both windows mobile based).
The start of the trials was to find a program that would work with geocaching.com.
There are plenty of programs out there on the web, some free, some pay... but not all of them are directly compatible with the geocaching website.
I trialled CacheMate and GCZ with my phones (and a few others that really are not worth mentioning they were so substandard). I have to say, pound for pound, GCZ punches well above its weight.
GCZ is FREEWARE. The Author has just released GCZII which again is freeware. CacheMate is pay to use... and whilst I was initially very happy with the Cachemate software, it was forever being re-invented and updated, and was rather long winded to start up and connect.
Now, on the connecting side of things, GCZ fairs no better. But its quick to start, and it allows you to do almost everything you can do whilst sat at your PC logged on to the site. Best of all, after all the features, its free.
The features include: Logging your finds, Reviewing previous logs, Viewing the hints, Viewing Waypoints, Viewing the cache in google maps and direct GPS navigation to the cache site. Its built with touchscreens in mind, so the buttons and interface are big and easy to navigate.
Anyway, I digress. I downloaded GCZII from the NICQUE software site. It came in a .cab format which you place directly onto your mobile device and extract (double click to install).
Once installed, it set up the GPS, and I had to enter a few details such as my geocaching.com log in details, and I also had to agree to geocaching.com's waypoints agreement - which is displayed in the internet browser on the device. That was the most tricky part to set up, but you only have to do it once.

After that, once you start the program it locks onto the satellites and loads up. You can then search for caches in a variety of different manners. By post/zip code, caches nearby your location, by another location, by username, by cache name... and more.


THE DEDICATED GPS HANDHELD SYSTEM
If you are fortunate to possess one of these dedicated units, they are the best thing you can use whilst out caching.
GPS Handheld's are manufactured by many companies, but the main two to look for are Magellan and Garmin.
You can pick up a cheap GPS Handheld on Ebay, or at Argos in the UK for about 80 quid.
These units vary greatly in price. Generally (but not always), the higher the price, the more satellites they will detect at any given moment (called channels), and the more accurate a location you will get out on the trail.
Ideally, as a basic minimum when looking to purchase, I suggest you should be looking for a unit that will pick up at least 12 channels, with the ability to enter co-ordinates into them whilst on the move (you would think this a standard on all handhelds, but cheaper units dont always allow it - some require you to "load" co-ordinates before you leave the house), and have the ability to "track" where you are using a system known as trails (trails plot where you've been so far - so if you get lost you can return on the same path).
You should also consider battery life and PC connections. If you opt for a monochrome display, this will usually preserve batteries far longer than the colour equivalents. Try to go for a USB connection device to work with modern PC's. Some older or cheaper units have a manufacturers own connection which can be fiddly at best.



IN CAR EQUIPMENT
The second things you should be looking for after locating a suitable GPS system is your in car equipment. Since your car will be your second home throughout a day of caching, you need to make sure you have everything you may need out on the trail to hand in the boot. To this end, I have compiled a list of things I carry, or suggest you at least consider before you trek out.


BOOTS
Number one on the list. Without a decent pair of boots in your boot you aren't going very far very comfortably.
True, many caches out and about town are easy to find, easy to log and take little effort. But you may find yourself out in the countryside trekking across muddy fields, running from livestock and traversing nettle strewn areas in the corner of fields.
Boots are a must. Comfortable, Dry and Hard Wearing. Those Shoezone loafers will have to go!


WATER
The second must. You don't know how long you'll be trekking. There may not be any local shops available in the middle of the countryside - and even if their are, not all countryside folk accept Mastercard! Food is also good if you're planning a day of it. But if you are planning a day of it, you would have already considered this point, so its moot.


FIRST AID KIT
Again, you may be in the countryside surrounded by stingy and scratchy things. Any good car will have one of these anyway... but take a small carryall with you containing the following: Elastoplast strips, Scissors, Antihistamines (for you hay-fever sufferers), Bite/Sting Ease spray, Aspirin and/or Ibuprofen, and sunblock - it can get very hot very quickly in the middle of a field full of rape seed.


CASH
Take some cash with you. You remember that stuff. It has pictures of a very much younger looking monarch on it. (or in the case of US visitors, Dead Presidents). As mentioned earlier, not everywhere in the country accepts Mastercard, and you may just see a couple of pubs on your travels that you wouldn't mind a cold one or two in.


PHONE
If you are using a phone as a GPS system, you've got this one covered - just make sure you have a good charge before you set off. Take a phone for two main reasons. The first, obviously, is to contact people - and mainly the emergency services if you get into the brown sticky stuff. But also, most phones have built in cameras on them. Take pictures whilst you go! Upload them to geocaching. let others see the great day you've been having.


IN CAR CHARGERS
Keep these in the car! But take chargers for your phone, sat nav devices etc.... You may even need to invest in one of those cigarette lighter sockets adapters to fit three plugs into the one socket. Sorry, their called car power points these days. I still use mine for lighting up.


A COAT
Yes, even in the middle of the summer, we all know the British weather. Keep that option covered with a cover in your boot just in case.

(and the list goes on......)


PAPER/PENS AND SUNDRIES
Take a pen where-ever you go. This should be number two on the list really. Waters a close second. Not all caches have pens in them for you to log a find when you finally do get to it. Take a pen to make sure you can log your visit. Theres nothing worse than trekking a mile across the field to realise you have no way of marking your presence at the cache site (in a nice way I mean).
Some of us take rubber stamps with us as well (self inking variety), to make our mark either quickly (in stealth mode) or if we have no pen to hand.
Take paper as well. Useful for notes. Also useful to leave your mark in a cache if the log book is full or wet through (some caches get very wet).
Sundries.... Well, I mean things to put in the caches you visit. Some people leave their own personalised calling cards. Most people will leave little trinkets and games in caches for others to collect as they pass through. The golden rule with these sorts of items is that you should always put something in to take something out.
There is an exception. Travel Bugs (TB's) are not classed as "trinkets". They are released by their owners with missions to undertake. You can take these without leaving something so long as you help it on its mission (whatever that may be).


TORCHES
If you plan to cache in the evening or night time, take the torches. Ideally, ones you don't have to hold, headlamps. This leaves both hands free for caching - one to hold the GPS unit, the other to steady yourself on the trail.


RUCKSACK
You'll need a rucksack to fit in the water, food, sundries, etc....


CACHE PRINTOUTS
Ok. Our electronic equipment is the best thing in the world, but what happens when it fails. Geocaching.Com allows you to print off hardcopies of the caches you plan to visit. You can include previous logs in the printout if required (sometimes these are useful to locate a particularly tricky cache... hints sometimes available). We recommend you print off cache listings for the more difficult looking caches - such as multi stage caches, or puzzles.
So the equipment fails mid cache expedition - you can revert to paper copies and either program a handheld device with your destination or rely on the clues and map on the printout to assist you. Its not been unknown for us to rely on this method to find a location or two. But you'll need luck on your side as much as anything else.


SEAMANROB'S QUICK TIP
Ok. One tip any orienteering person should perhaps remember. You're out in the middle of a wood, and you've lost your way. The sat nav is playing up and its getting a bit too much like Blair Witch. How do you find your compass bearings now?
Obviously, you need to know the rough area you are in so NSE and W will be of use to you. But if you know that you want to head north to get to safety, or east or whereever.... you just need to know which way north is.... A simple trick for you:

Take your wristwatch. Point the hour hand at the suns location. Make sure you point the "standard time" hour hand at the sun. If its daylight savings you need to take off an hour. Now locate 12 on your watchface. directly inbetween these points is DUE SOUTH. So if the hour is five pm, due south would be at roughly 2.30 on the watchface. From that, you can find the rest of the bearings. In the northern hemisphere, the angle points to due south. In the southern hemisphere, its due north. And dont expect complete and utter accuracy using this method. Due to your watch settings, the angles of the sun etc, the time when you do it (early and late times in the day are less accurate) it may be a few degrees off, but its close enough when you're in trouble.


SO YOU'RE ALL SET
You've got your log on to geocaching sorted
You've got your GPS system at the ready
You've packed your car with all the essentials you may possibly need on the trail
You know how to find your bearings...

So you're all ready right!?

Well, certainly - you're set for a caching adventure. But you may also like to "bone up" a little on the area you are about to visit. In the UK were pretty blase about safety issues. We don't think about stuff like that much because, well, its the UK... what is there to think about.
But a couple of pointers to keep you safe.

Woodland areas are probably the most beautiful places to visit, but they are also home to some creatures you may want to avoid.

SNAKES
The UK has three types of indigenous snake. The Grass Snake, Smooth Snake and the infamous Adder, which is a viper. It is also our only poisonous snake, and it generally reserves that for smaller mammals but don't be complacent on the trail. Adders have been known to kill humans. Granted, none on record for the last 20 years - and lets keep it that way. Keep an eye out for these snakes with their distinctive diamond markings and inverted V's on their necks, and pay them the respect they deserve if you do find any.
Be VERY WARY of putting your hand into tree trunks and other areas that you can not see into or around fully.
Remember also that all three are protected against harm from humans in law.

adder (13k image)


SPIDERS
Although we have no indigenous poisonous spiders, we are getting warmer year on year. Experts predict that we will eventually see the Black Widow making its home over here...
For the time being however, we do have some visitors that have set up permanent home on the south coast (and spreading northwards year on year) that you will want to avoid.
The first is the Tube Web spider. It builds its webs in the crevices of walls, and as its name suggests, the web is tubular. They tend to be docile unless you provoke them eg with sticks etc.... Where they will raise up and bare fangs - and may even jump and bite. The bite is nasty, but not life threatening.
The second one, again, along the south and moving north... is one to steer clear of. The False Widow Spider. Bites can hospitalise people.

_44948319_steatoda_paykulliana_hine (11k image)


And you thought you were safe!


CHIGGERS
Chiggers are pretty much a globe parasitic mite, and there are lots of species of them. In the UK, we tend to refer to them as Harvest Mites. They are abundant, as their name suggests in the harvest time of year, and generally in the warmer times during summer. The chigger is the larvae of the Harvest Mite. Its the stage before adulthood. They wait in grasslands for an unsuspecting mammal to brush past, whereupon they attach to the skin. They cause extremely itchy swellings to occur, because in much the same manner as a common fly when it feeds, Chiggers liquefy the skin they are on with an enzyme, and then suck up your now gooey skin.

Chiggers_Joy_Victory (26k image)


They are about 0.5mm in size, so don't expect to see them on your skin. They don't burrow into you, contrary to what popular theory says. They are carried by all sorts of animals and can pass from animal to animal with close proximity. If you find Chigger bites, you need to wash your skin thoroughly at least twice. Apply antihistamines immediately afterwards. This reduces the itch and stops reinfection. Although the bites itch like hell, its the secondary infections you need to be very wary of. Wash all bedding and clothing in as hot a wash as you can. General housekeeping as you would for treating a flea infestation should stop any stragglers in their tracks.

Oh, did I mention they prefer chalk lands as well, although they are not limited to them!


Ticks are another - although lesser - concern. Usually preferring livestock to humans, they can none-the-less find there way onto us as well. Its important not to squeeze the tick if you do happen to be latched on to because the contents of its last meal is more than likely going to flow straight into you (and all the disease that it may contain). And dont use a matchhead as granny used to say, use tweezers and pull it off in a sharp manner - making sure to get the pincers out as well or it may turn nasty. Check online for the best methods.

Check out the geocaching.com listings page attributes to see what the author of the cache you are visiting has to say about the area. Do follow the authors advice. They planted the cache, they know the area. If they tell you not to try to complete the cache at night or in the dark, don't ignore this advice. There may be hidden pitfalls in the area. You never know.

Livestock is another hazard of the trail. That cute little calf in the field ISNT on its own. It will have a parent not too far away - a two ton parent with horns and four speedy legs. Always be wary around cows! They're not as daft as they look, and they're fast and agile - despite what they look like. Trust me, we know! My only satisfaction is knowing their Aunt will be on my dinner plate on Saturday!

Finally, look at local council/county council websites for guidance on local footpaths and byways you can use. Always try to stick to designated footpaths where possible. Sometimes you may have no option than to deviate, but always return to it when you can. Plan a route before you depart, and make sure you have an idea of other routes available just in case.

CACHING AND CAMPING
If you've decided that the day may not be long enough, you can always take the tent with you.
Again, being as prepared as we are, we do have a tent in the car. Cheap one from Tescos! But should it ever be the case that were in the fields and the rain starts to pour.... its in the boot of the car so I doubt it'll help. We've yet to use it, but I can envisage a time when we may need it. If you take a tent, remember the torches, possibly take cooking facilities, and the sleeping bags. Matches should be a must, and rubbish bags to take any refuse when you pack up.

REMEMBER - THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS BEING OVER PREPARED WHEN ITS YOU VS NATURE

 


 

Rob Watkins | Create your badge

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